Mission Antarctica – the lessons

The Antarctica expedition was the most unrushed time of my life since my early teenage years. The uninterrupted time to myself, away from cell-phones, emails, deadlines and all worries, gave me ample time to think things through. I came away with a lot of lessons. Some of the lessons were reconfirmation of the old. Many of them gave new perspectives on myself and the world around me. Some of the lessons require me to make new commitments – some personal and some not so personal. On the subject of global warming and climate change, seeing a giant iceberg disintegrate right in front of your eyes at Charlotte Bay in a thunderous noise knocked the wax out of my ears and the cataracts out of my eyes. Seeing the lights at Robert Swan’s E-Base in Bellingshausen station powered out of wind and solar energy makes you wonder out loud why on earth can’t we use the same technology in the more hospitable settings we have in rest of the world. Seeing the abandoned remnants of human activity at Whaler’s Cove makes you promise yourself that you will never be part of any such short sighted and gluttonous mission, plans or business models. At the end of it all, I came away with my own simple definition on sustainability – a word my archaic brain has failed to decipher completely before. For me it means, ‘Balance’. Balancing what we consume today against the self healing and self replenishing capacity of mother-nature. Balancing the profits of today versus the profits of tomorrow. Balancing the needs of an organization, its shareholders, the communities it touches AND ever forgotten mother-nature. Balance!

The expedition also gave me a chance to connect with eleven top caliber people from the various business groups of the diverse company I work for. I learned a lot from them. I learned a lot more about my own company from them. Is there a better way to learn about the diverse and large company I work for than to get to know and understand eleven other individuals representing the different sides of the company? Through them I learned how teams can come together in adversity. I enjoyed their company. I made great new friends. Through our interactions we sharpened each other; like iron sharpens iron. We came together as 12 individuals, shared 12 days in a unique adventure to the edge of the world, and we have returned to 12 different worlds, more aware of ourselves, our company, our world, and our responsibilities. We want to share our experience, our learnings, our stories (and our pictures) with everyone and anyone who wants to listen. Through the sharing we acknowledge the company that send us on this unique journey – Akzo Nobel, the organization that led the expedition and is committed to engaging the world about Antarctica – 2041, the many faces that graced our lives during the expedition, and the majestic land and its rightful inhabitants that hosted us and inspired us – amazing Antarctica.

Mission Antarctica – A great Adventure

I have always been a dreamer. Going to Antarctica, however, was not part of any dreams or any random thoughts I ever had. But, when I heard about the chance of going to Antarctica on a company sponsored expedition I knew at once that it was once in a lifetime opportunity. Beyond my geography lessons in my school years, I did not know, and did not care, much about the frozen tundra so far south. In the initial spurt of excitement after finding about the expedition, and in my attempt to hide my lack of general knowledge about the continent, I even misspelled ‘Antarctica’ as I tried to google about the continent. Now with the expedition behind me, I am coming to terms with the rare privilege I had and slowly recognizing the wider impact the experience is making on me.

Mission Antarctica for me was an adventure. It was an adventure that stoked all the senses of my body. It was an adventure that allowed me to find more about myself. It was an adventure that has inspired me about the environment around us, and as far as Antarctica. It was an adventure thickened with eleven others from the diverse and dynamic company I work for. What an amazing adventure it was! Like your favorite movie, it allows you to play it scene by scene, over and over again, without ever approaching boredom. Everyday it reveals something new. Every time it teaches something different. At each reiteration, it inspires new ideas. I rode some of the roughest seas. I climbed some of the treacherous slopes at the bottom of the world. I camped out in the cold wilderness of Antarctica. I saw wildlife in the sanctuary of Antarctic waters and Antarctic soil. I experienced first hand the effects of rising temperature of our planet. I enjoyed sceneries that neither words, pictures nor videos can do justice. I felt the cold wind that pierces through layers of clothing. I felt my own sweat freeze against my body. I munched on some of the freshest snow in the world. I drank the purest water right at its origin. I played Ultimate Frisbee on the windiest continent of the world. I went to sleep under the stars, just after listening to the tales from a man who crossed both poles of the world for the first time in human history – from the devil himself. I saw for myself the scene of scattered whale bones, and human bones abandoned together -- an unforgettable imagery reflecting the dreary end to a human enterprise that plundered nature with no regards for tomorrow. I experienced the raw beauty and the raw fury of mother-nature, both in the same breath.

I am so pleased with how well the plot of my adventure came together. The setting for it was purely enchanting. It was set in the far, far land with white powder sands, blue rich waters, floating glass rocks, split tailed water monsters that joyfully spouts water plumes into air, strange birds that won’t fly, but skip around in neatly pressed butler uniforms, and ever elusive warmth that swings between freezing and frozen. Like a generous host, Antarctica welcomed me well and served me a feast of experiences that exceeded my expectations. Through them it communicated. Sometimes in a wild explosion that is so hard to keep it to yourself. But, mostly in a subtle way, like a secret look exchanged between two good friends; a lot communicated, but hardly any words uttered. As a result of it all I left the continent mesmerized, inspired, changed and committed. At the same time, I left feeling apprehensive, wondering what will happen to this unspoiled, but fragile, land in the coming years. Would humankind raid the last cupboard of the world in desperation as we dry up the resources elsewhere or would we correct our ways long before and thus preserve the last wilderness of the world for the generations to come.

Back Home

Got back home! Chicago winter is still in its full glory – still zero degrees Celsius at the approach of April! But, some how zero feels warmer than before. On the way home the taxi driver asked where I am flying in from. I had to think about it for a second before I could answer. I unpacked! There is a stench mountain in the corner of the bedroom. Everything I took with me has been used and used again during the expedition. During the trip home I wore the freshest set of clothes – which was relative at that point – I had with me.

The pictures and some random memories tell me I had an amazing last couple of weeks. But, the mind is not so sure. I feel a hole in the timeframe. I find myself roaming around the house, with no known purpose, from one room to another, sitting on the couch, the bed, the study chair or the floor. At each place I try to convince myself the whereabouts of the last two weeks. I almost achieve it, before the grandeur of the experience reasons with my mind and question its sanity. I am still in the expedition mode. My phone is off and still liking it. Only made couple of calls to the dearest ones. Feels very tired! I could sleep for hours. I don’t know why! I am longing for some uninterrupted sleep. No wake-up calls, no excursions, no sightings I don’t want to miss, no hikes I dare not avoid. All I want now is just 24 hours of pure boredom that could justify a long sleep. Is that too much to ask for? Occasionally you feel the floor swaying beneath you. You brace yourself against the wall and wonder how strong is the wind outside. I feel under-dressed just wearing one layer of clothing. My feet tinkles as my barefoot, which have been in a pair of shoes around the clock for the last two weeks, rub against the carpet. Amazing how I never noticed before the soothing therapeutic effect of my carpet. The rooms and the walls feel so closed in. I looked around for the button that opens the roof up, to no avail. The water from the refrigerator feels unusually warm. I checked to make sure that the knob is turned to the right spot, and it was. Few minutes ago I experienced the feeling of déjà vu, trying to put the jacket in the closet. I thought for a few moments why that feeling was absent for the last two weeks. The TV looks shockingly unappealing and useless! I don’t even reach for the remote. Note to myself – see a doctor if the symptom persists. Thought about checking my email couple of times. Pounding headache, each time! I saved the drudgery for a more lucid day. I am slowly becoming aware of complex information such as what day and date it is. Today is Sunday and tomorrow is Moan-day. But, looking on the bright side, I will have a chance then to torment my poor colleagues with repeat stories of glaciers, whales, penguins, icebergs, hiking, camping, rough seas and “Last week at this time I was…..” Oh God, I can’t wait for Moanday.

Ambush in the Drake Passage

On the way back to Ushuaia we ran into the mighty fury of the Drake Passage. We were expecting a rough passage with 30 knots winds and 5 meter waves. We were served with 60-70 knots wind and 8-10 meter waves. Hurricane class winds and waves at Force 11 to 12! On the first day, the waves came head on, making the ship pitch from front to back. Then the wind changed direction and started coming in from the side, forcing the ship to roll from side to side, as well. From the bridge you can see the ship’s bow arching up and then plunge deep into the wave, while the ship is rolling from left to right. The resulting effect is a white plume of water spray about 30 meters into the air, all around the ship.

The waves were crashing all around the ship. The waves from the side were the worst. They were forcing the ship to roll at 45 degree angle. At 48 degree angle, the ship would tip over!!! Walking around the ship was near impossible without crashing into something. Everyone was forbidden from going out on the deck. One of the 10 meter wave that came in from the side scared the hell out of us. It crashed onto the deck with great force, and everyone that was sitting in the lounge got thrown from the chair and squashed into the opposite wall, along with the furniture.

None of us could sleep, as the violent rolling of the ship almost forced all of us from our beds. I barely stayed on the top bunk of my cabin by pushing myself against the ceiling with one hand and holding on to the side rail of the bed with my other hand. Many tried to sleep on the floor, to avoid being thrown from the bed. They were thrown around the four corners of the room as Drake put on a full fledged show of might. The rough seas lasted over 36 hours, keeping many of my team mates in their cabins. One member on the expedition team broke her angle as she got thrown across the lounge. The captain told us that it was the second worst Drake Passage he ever had, with the worst Drake passage coming 6 years ago. I am glad for the memorable experience, but I don’t want to experience that again.

Last landing

This morning we went to Deception Island. Deception Island is a dormant volcano that erupted most recently in 1991. Because of the volcanic activity in the island, the water next to the beach is luke warm. Few among us went for a swim in the water and then hiked up to a steep rocky ledge with a great view called the ‘Neptune’s Window’. From there we could see a wide ocean open in front of us, as far as the eye can see. The weather, with clear winds and no clouds, was ideal today for the uninterrupted view.

Deception Bay is one of the few places where we came we could see remnants of human activity. Deception bay, with the most naturally protected harbor in the world, offered itself as an ideal location as a whaling station in the past. They slaughtered over 1 million whales in that region decimating the whale population in less than 25 years and bringing them to the brink of extinction. No whales, no whaling stations needed. The whole beach is now littered with remains of once thriving industry. Abandoned ships & planes, corroding tents & tanks, and decaying whale bones! A classic case on sustainable business practices.

In the afternoon we went to Half Moon Island, where an Argentinean bases exists. I walked around the beach alone, enjoying the sights of shy penguins and their colonies, angry seals, low flying birds, and the arch shaped beach. This was going to be our last land excursion in Antarctica. I wanted that time for myself.

Once back onboard the ship, we all gathered on the top deck of the ship. The 2041 expedition leaders gathered at the bow of the bridge, ringing the ship’s bell 3 times in salute to the great wilderness of Antarctica, the expedition team and the ship’s crew. The captain blasted the ship’s horn two times as we bid adieu to Antarctica. The sun was near setting. The snow banks was lit in orange glow. The sky was shades of orange and blue. The wind was blowing hard. Still many remained on the deck, mingling with each other, taking pictures, enjoying the bitter-sweet moment of bidding farewell to Antarctica. I took one more last look at the majestic snow covered peaks, as the sun disappeared behind the mountains into the ocean, and went below deck.

Feeling Top at the Bottom of the World

Today we went for a long hike on land. It was a 2km hike to about 1000 meter height. It was an arduous climb and turned out to be a defining point of the expedition for me.

The three in the front of our hiking team was tethered to each other with a rope. The first person in the front made sure our path was clear of crevasses and unstable snow, while the ones tied to him acted as his safety incase he fell through. The ones behind the three had to walk up the slope in a single file, in the foot step of the ones in front. One misstep and you can slide down the steep slope onto the rocks on one side or the chilly water on the other side. By the time we got to the top, we were trudging through snow that was knee deep. But, we got to the top for an amazing view and feeling.

I learned an important thing myself in that hike and I also learned something about teamwork in that hike. I realized that I live for that one spectacular view, for that one accomplishment, for that special spot on the ledge. For that I can walk miles, month, years. I can block out everything else and zoom in on that one thing that I treasure and I want. In terms of teamwork, the whole hike took the entire team. The one in the front made sure our path was safe for the climb. The ones tethered to him made sure he was safe. The ones behind made sure we kept the pace and we didn’t leave anyone behind. We didn’t stop or delay for personal wants or needs, like stopping to take pictures, or taking breaks at each and every turn. That would have slowed down the entire team and would have possibly kept us reaching the top in the narrow window we had to finish the climb before the sunset. At the end all of us got to the top and got to enjoy the fruit of our labor together. The view we shared was breath taking. The bay with our ship was straight below us. Across the bay was high mountains and glaciers as far as the eyes can see. To the right of us was the most unstable glacier in Antarctica with so many cracks. It looked like a large cake, with white frosting, cut into many pieces at a birthday party. But I was most mesmerized by the long, single file trail that we made coming up the narrow ledge of the snow bank. That single foot trail, along with our determination, our discipline, our trust is what got us all safe to the top. The same trail and characters took us back to the ship in safety.

Leave only foot prints behind

One of the peculiar things I found out during our expedition is the extra attention that goes into keeping Antarctic unspoiled by our expedition leaders and by the ship’s crew. Every time we go ashore we are reminded to wash our boots in disinfecting solution before we board the zodiacs. We are reminded all the time not to leave anything behind in Antarctic and not to leave with anything from Antarctic (except for the experiences and memories). We are not allowed to bring any food on land, except for the rations for the camping night and no drinks other than water. Every time I took the Frisbee with me, the ship’s crew made sure I brought it back with me. Our ‘Leaving Nothing Behind’ commitment was very much tested during the camping out. All of our waste, no matter in what shape or form, had to be bagged and brought back to the ship.

In another incident, when James hit 3 golf balls during his attempt for the longest drive in Antarctica, we couldn’t find one of the balls he hit. We rummaged around the snow slope and the rocky beach for over an hour, with no success. We then called off the search, to avoid delays to the activities scheduled for rest of the day. But, at the end of the day, right before sun set, three of us came back to the same spot. We conducted another hour of search in the cold, wind and snow before we found the missing ball. We kept on looking against all odds and all hope. You wouldn’t believe the excitement and pride onboard amongst us, among the crew and especially with Robert Swan. In finding the ball against all odds, we shared and met his lifelong commitment to leave nothing behind in Antarctica, even if it was just a golf ball. We knew that was important to him and we also realized it has become important for us as well.

Paradise Bay

We just arrived in Paradise bay. This morning we returned from camping out with an amazing experience. So far Antarctica has been visited by about 150,000 scientists, and other visitors. But not many of them had the opportunity to camp even for a night in Antarctica. So with our camping experience, we are privileged to be part of a very exclusive experience. I must admit it was nice to return to the safety and comfort of our expedition ship and get a warm meal and a warm shower.

Paradise bay is surrounded on all sides by high snow covered peaks. The water is so still, the reflections of the peaks in the water come off so well. The water is speckled with floating icebergs and ice formations. These ice formations look like Lilly pads floating on water and they move out of the way as the ship’s bow reaches them and then close behind on us once the ship passes them. I have never seen this much snow in my life. It is stacked as high as the clouds. The sun is up, as if on cue. The lit snow peaks, with blue water in the front and cloud free sky in the back, makes for a great view. The peaks look like they are stacked up against each other like playing cards in a poker hand. With the sun being up, you can now see the snow being blown around at the top of the peaks. Blink! That should etch the image in my mind.

Nick found Paradise Bay an ideal spot to the hold the fourth Leadership on the Edge session (LOTE) about sustainable businesses. We took the zodiacs ashore and found a nice nook at the bottom of the glacier. There we discussed the common wins, hurdles and opportunities we experience in terms of sustainability in our organizations. After the session we hiked up the glacier and – you guessed it – slid down the glacier (this time on my stomach, head first). I think I am getting a hang of this.

Camping out

We woke up at about 0630 to an orange tinted sunrise in the bay. Last night we setup the camp – yes you guessed it – on a glacier. Yesterday, the later part of the day was spent watching whales, seals and penguins in the cold Antarctic waters. Antarctic waters serves as a great sanctuary for wild life. It is so refreshing and liberating to see the wild life roam in the water and land undisturbed and uninhibited. We had multiple sights of whales breach the water surface near our ship. It is amazing to see these large animals (about the size of a good sized motor boat) come up about a meter out of the water, catch air, arch like a high jumper and land back in the water with a big splash.

We pitched our camping tents on a spot picked up the two expedition leaders from Norway – Knut and Torant. We affectionately call them “the Norwegians”. They painstakingly scout out all land excursions and give general safety guidelines on what can be done on land and what should be avoided. For the camping, they secured the perimeter of the camping ground with a rope and instructed us never to cross the ropes for fear of avalanches and snow slides. Soon after we had our tents erected in the cold, wind and snow, the weather calmed down a bit, and the snow & the wind stopped. We further secured our tent against wind and snow with a weather cover and a dozen iron spikes, drilled deep into the ice below us. I shared my tent with James. For sleeping we had thin Styrofoam mattress and a sleeping bag. The space was cramped with backpacks, shoes, our parka jackets and there was hardly any space for two of us. Nothing can be left outside for the fear of snow, wind and ice. If I have taken to heart one thing in Antarctica so far, it is that the weather can change in an instant.

After the tent was up, we threw the Frisbee I brought with me around until it was too dark. To get us through the night, away from the safety of the ship or any other help, we carried headlamps, flash lights and emergency food. After some campsite stories, bordering on spookiness or humor, we hit the sleeping bags. We were all tired from the hike up the glacier with all the gear, pitching the tents and weathering the high winds and cold on the slope. There were plenty of ghost snorers on that slope that night, with me as their supreme leader. In our planning and supplies, I planned for everything, but for the ear plugs. Poor James came to appreciate his iPOD even more after the camping in the tent with me.

Leadership on the Edge

Nick, our charismatic Australian facilitator with a great sense of humor (don’t all the Australian’s have a good sense of humor), held the third session of the Leadership on the Edge (LOTE) program today – right at the edge of a glacier. What a setting? What a view? What a classroom? Behind us was a steep slope that opens into an iceberg filled cove. We were asked to stay away from the edge to avoid crumbling the unstable snow at the edge and triggering an avalanche. All of us sat on the slope, in the snow, listening (attentively) to Nick talk about how to get buy in from a team. I will never forget the view as Nick stood there drawing on the flip chart (that was standing amazingly upright on the slope on its 3 legs), against the backdrop of the bay at the bottom of the slope and snow covered peaks on the opposite side of the bay. If we slipped from our seats in the snow, we will be sliding down about 50 meters and if we are lucky we will stop short of the icy water in the bay. During the one hour session on “Team Buy in” we covered Trust, Ownership and Engagement. In the middle of the session Nick was rudely interrupted by a thunderous sound, which we immediately found out was the giant iceberg that was nearest to us breaking up and disintegrating right in front of our eyes. That was the unscheduled session on Global Warming. – the most effective 30 seconds on the subject for all of us.

After the session all of us hiked further up the glacier to a even better view. To get back to the zodiacs, we slid our way down a slide our expedition leaders dug in to the side of the glacier. What a ride as you slid down on your back 50 meters down the powdery slope. Class dismissed!

Leadership on the Edge program is an integral part of our Antarctic Expedition. It is a program designed by Robert Swan to stoke the leadership potential within the participants and to inspire them to action. The program is based on the leadership aspects that Robert Swan believes are the key to delivering extraordinary results in a sustainable way. Robert Swan’s own personal experience in leading diverse teams through his polar expeditions, through his mission to raise awareness about AIDS in Africa, and his mission to raise environmental awareness are all distilled into this program. It gives a good balance of inspiration through story telling, lectures and hands on experience. For me the highlight was the hands on experience. For example, Delando was given the opportunity to lead the team up the glacier in Ushuaia. I was given the opportunity to lead a team of 7 for the camping part of the expedition. Tonight we are going camping.

Million Dollar view, Billion Dollar Feeling

New day. I woke up again to our team leader’s wake-up call at 0630 and walked onto the deck to a magnificent sunrise, icebergs, and whales. Pictures Galore! It sure beats the train track view I wake up to in Chicago. The weather was totally different from yesterday. Cold was still there at -30 C, but the sea was calm and there was no snow or wind. After breakfast we started with our second session of the Leadership on the Edge program with ‘Vision’ as the theme of the session. (The first session on ‘Effective Teams’ already took place in Ushuaia, before we boarded the ship.) In the afternoon we left the ship for the mainland Antarctica. What an afternoon awaited us there.

I jumped off the zodiac onto the mainland Antarctica. Right foot forward! Once the zodiacs left, the only noise we could hear are ourselves, the waves crashing gently onto the black-pebble-rich-beach and, if you really tried, the distant hum of the ship. In the two hour we spend on the beach we can occasionally hear icebergs breaking off the glaciers and falling into the ocean. The noise sounds like distant thunder.

The scenery was fantastic in all directions. It makes even me look like a professional photographer. Out toward the sea the view is filled with cobalt blue icebergs in copper blue water. It is a bright and sunny day. There are no clouds in the area we are in. Only bright blue sky. The temperature in the sun hovers around -6C. The beach is littered with giant sized ice-boulders. Behind us stand an exposed stone face about 200 meters in height. The rust colored stone edifice stands like a giant fortress; as if meant to intimidate and keep away unwelcome visitors from the continent. How awesome it stands! The hill next to it has somewhat of a steep slope covered with snow. All around you the view is great. I see the penguins walking by toward the beach and seals sunbathing for hours on end with no care or worry of the visitors. Spoiled brats! Some of the penguins were a bit scared of us, while many of them walked past us with pride, indicating that they are the rightful owners of that land. (We are allowed to get within 5 meters of the penguins and 12 meters of the seals to minimize our intrusion into their world.) The air is crisp and clean to breath. As you breath in the air you feel it is so unpolluted. It will take some getting used to breath in air I can’t see.

After an hour on the beach, we hiked up the steep slope for about 50 meters to an even more amazing view. From there I can see the entire bay open beneath us, with our ship in the near back ground, 100s of icebergs speckled all around the wide bay and snow covered peaks in the far distance. It was the million dollar view, with a billion dollar feeling to go with it. Priceless! I couldn’t help wonder, why in the world am I privileged to this view. The only answer I could think of was that somebody must have made a big mistake and sent me here on this expedition by accident.

Death by thousand needles!

An exciting day awaits us today. We are planning to go on land today for the first time since we left Ushuaia and visit Robert Swan and his team at the E-Base. We are not visiting mainland Antarctica, but an island within the continental boundary. Exciting, nonetheless!

Soon after breakfast and a review meeting, we got suited up for the trip ashore. The seas are still rough, it is windy and it is snowing hard. Temperature outside is about -18C. I have about four layers of clothing on, along with my water proof pants and jacket on the outside. I got a full set of spare in my backpack just incase I get wet. We get our safety training for survival in the chilly waters from one of the team leaders – “Jumper” -- who is part of the British Special Forces. If you are a POB (Person Overboard) during the trip from the ship to land on a zodiac (motorized rubber craft that seats about 10 people) we are instructed to release our life jacket by pulling the release string and fold our hands across the chest to minimize heat loss (rather than flapping around in the water). Very interesting stuff!

After half of our team were on shore aboard the zodiacs (stored in the back of our ship and put into sea by an onboard crane), the sea got too rough for anymore trips to the shore. The wind picked up to 40 knots and the waves were over 2 meters high. Welcome to Antarctica weather – channel 5 meteorologist’s worst nightmare! They almost cancelled our trip ashore. After a two hour wait, at which point we were all at the peak of cabin fever and ever close to full fledged mutiny on the ship, the sea calmed down just enough to get the rest of the team to the shore. What great timing!

Even then the wind was still ferocious. I am not sure if the snow was still falling or the wind was picking up the dry powder off the floor and throwing it all around. It is a total white out around us. In the strong winds the snow was being thrown around and at you. Any exposed body parts, especially the face, felt like being hit with thousand needles. I put on my ski goggles, my full cover head cover, another winter hat, two pairs of gloves and still felt the cold get through to you.

Once on shore, we went up to the E-Base (a 20 meter climb) setup by Robert Swan and his 2041 team as a station from where to educate and inspire young people around the world about Antarctica and our environment. The coolest part was the visit to E-Home where Robert Swan spent the last two weeks, surviving solely on renewable energy. There is a windmill, and solar panels that harvest the wind and solar power to generate enough electricity to light the E-Home, provide heating, and provide few other amenities like communication access to the outside world. Pretty cool and fascinating stuff. We even found out that Robert was able to get a shower and a shave in hot water during the two weeks. There was hardly had any sun when I was there and I am told the weather was similar to that in the preceding two weeks. But they still were able to harvest enough energy to be self sufficient for two weeks. Why on earth can’t be we do this back home as well?

While on land, we also went on a small hike to the nearest beach. After about an hour of ice, snow, wind, cold, slippery slopes, we spotted some seals at the beach. For everything else, there is MasterCard. We took the zodiacs back to the ship, together with Robert Swan and his E-Base team, before the weather got any worse. What a day it was! It was nice to get off the ship and do something different. You can sense the renewed excitement in everybody. Plenty of conversations, laughter and stories of Robert’s adventures onboard. Just what the doctor ordered!

First sights

Day 2 onboard MV Ushuaia and today was an exceptionally good day with sights of many things that I never seen before in my life. By early morning we were already in Antarctic waters and soon we spotted an iceberg floating freely in the ocean. Above the water level, it had the size of a 2 bedroom house, with 2 floors. I heard someone say that only ten percent of an iceberg is visible above the water level. We also spotted 6 whales playing around our ship and then disappearing behind the ship. Our captain was nice enough to steer the ship in a way so that we can have a good view of the whales. By early evening we spotted the first Antarctic land mass, with glaciers, many small ice bergs, and few penguins on the beach. The expedition leaders promised us a better view in the coming days. But, I felt like I had the million dollar view already.

Once we pulled into the bay across the Bellinghausen station, Robert Swan, who spent the last couple of weeks on the E-Base in Antarctica relying solely on renewable energy, came on board for a surprise visit and to welcome everyone. He met with everyone and then left the ship soon after that for the E-Base. We will be all going to the E-Base tomorrow morning for a guided tour. That will be followed by some manual labor around the E-base (digging, cleaning, replenishing supplies, etc) and a two hour hike to an area near the E-Base. We are advised to wear 4 layers of clothing to combat the cold. The temperature hovers around -10 C, but the wind-chill factor makes it even colder. To further complicate the matter, the weather forecast says the temperature might drop further and winds might pick-up more tonight. It has already started to snow and sleet outside. I can’t believe I am still ecstatic about leaving the comfort of the ship, go on land, and expose myself to the cold weather for over 10 hours. My own insanity sometimes baffles me.

Onboard MV Ushuaia

Day 1 of the crossing across Drake Passage on our ship MV Ushuaia and we woke up to the wake-up call from our team leader at 0700 in the morning. I was able to catch a good sun rise, even though the cloud coverage hid most of the sun. The temperature outside is not so bad. I can walk around in a fleece jacket and a water proof wind breaker. We are keeping to the same time-zone as in Argentina, which at this time of the year is 3 hours ahead of Chicago. For our breakfast, our chef whipped up a nice breakfast with scrambled eggs, sausages, croissants, sandwich meats, cheese and fresh fruits. I could only imagine how they managed to cook and serve that during the choppy seas.

We boarded MV Ushuaia the evening before. She carries a staff of 35 strong (mainly from Argentina). From the beginning they made us feel at home. After orientation about the ship and a full fledged safety drill that included climbing into life boats, we had our dinner. Dinner was a sumptuous 3 course meal and after that I gave up on any hope of losing couple of pounds on the trip. It took us over six hours after the ship left the port to reach the Drake Passage through the shallow Beagle Channel. Once we were in the Drake Passage, the seas started to get rough. Almost all of us were already on sea sickness medicine or patches, except for couple of brave souls.

After breakfast in the morning we realized that nearly half of our team was seasick, including some that were on medicine. The rest of us checked up on them periodically throughout the day and almost all of them felt better by the evening. In the mean time, the rest of us attended a seminar on climate change, led by the communication manager from investment firm Climate Change Capital. He shared with us the empirical data showing how the planet’s temperature has increased by 4 C over the last couple of centuries, with much of the temperature rise coming in the 20th century. He challenged us to be part of the solution. “If we are part of the problem, we should be part of the solution.” He said part of the difficulty in successfully dealing with climate change is that many talk about it, some know about it and very few act on it.

In the afternoon, our liaison officer aboard the ship gave a thorough introduction about the wild life in Antarctica, including the penguins, seals, whales, birds, etc. Antarctica is a great wild life preserve and all Antarctic tour operators enforce a strict set of rules to keep it that way. We need to keep at least 5m distance from all animals, even if it is a cute and cuddly penguin. We are also required to wash our boots and clothes in disinfecting solution before we leave the ship and before we return to the ship. This we are told is to minimize chances of introducing foreign agents to the wild life and to avoid any kind of infection breakout on the ship.

During the day and in between lectures and meals, I spent a considerable amount of time outside on the ship’s deck, especially at the front bow. It was nice to take it all in and breathe the freshest air I would probably ever run into my life. I also found few albatrosses flying around our ship. It was amazing to see these majestic birds (with 3 meter wing span) fly just inches off the water. I kept wondering where they will perch, since the nearest land mass is hundreds of miles away.

After another 3 course dinner, some game of cards in the lounge area, I hit the sack. The sea has calmed down a lot and I didn’t have to worry about rolling off the top bunk. The overall day was so relaxing, with no phones, no emails, no outside news, and with plenty of time for an afternoon nap. I think I will be coming back from the trip looking at least a year younger, but I want to bargain for 10.

On to the dreaded Drake Passage

This could be my last blog for a while. This evening we will be getting on the ship that will be our home for the next few days as we make across the Drake Passage from Ushuaia and on to Bellinghausen station in Antarctica. Crossing the drake passage is the part of the journey that I dread the most, as rough seas and I don’t get along well. The latest forecast that the expedition leaders shared with us indicates good weather for the days we are at sea. I am still holding on tightly to my sea sickness patches.

Through the marvels of modern communication I should be able to blog occasionally. But, our expedition leaders keep reminding us that all plans can change in a second in Antarctica and being part of an expedition means that there are no fixed time tables (but a rough guideline) and constant adaptation to changes is crucial for a successful expedition. Darn it! Not being in full control of my elements, how terrible! What else will I have to suffer?

If you still like to follow the expedition progress – even in the absence of front line reports from this exceptionally talented (and devilishly handsome) writer – you can track our everyday progress at http://www.2041.com/. The expedition is led by Robert Swan and the team leaders from his 2041 organization. They are the ones that organized this entire expedition and pulled together the amazing logistics that went into it. What a well organized and accommodating team they are! They have figured out a way to track our everyday progress via a GPS tracker and live telecasts on their website. However, I hope to keep on blogging daily in recognition of your loyal patronage to my blogs, even though there are just three of you.

Hike up the glacier

Today was an amazing day in Ushuaia. In the early morning we were sent on a short expedition to climb to one of the glaciers. The activity was meant to warm us all up into the expedition mood, test some of the gear, highlight safety and gel us even more as a team. The weather was perfect, with sun and no rain or drizzle. What an awesome feeling to climb to about the 700 meter above sea level, be at the glacier, feel the cool winds all around you, drink the glacier water and do it all with a cool group of people. The whole experience was exhilarating and it is exactly what this home boy needed to get in gear.

During the day we got a good doze of safety instructions for Antarctica as well. We heard over and over “Antarctica is a continent where mother-nature reigns supreme and she doesn’t take any prisoners.” “It is a continent that wants you dead and we just want to visit it.” “Proper gear and team work is essential to go there and come back – alive.” We all heard them loud and clear.

Ushuaia – World’s Southernmost city

We met at the hotel lobby in Buenos Aires at 6am for the trip to the airport. Everything on the trip to the airport went smooth as our group transportation to the airport was pre-arranged by the ever-resourceful Joanne on our team. My fortunes for the day stopped with that. At the airport I was one of the only two members on the team that had to pay extra for the luggage being overweight, even though every one of us had excess luggage. It got worse. On the plane, I ended up with a seat with no windows. I guess I will read somebody else’s blog to find out about the scenic trip that plane ride afforded. D@#n!

Ushuaia is a scenic city. Nearly three sides of the city are covered by a mountain range and city slopes into a large open bay. Our hotel is located up on the mountain slopes with a great view of the bay in the front and great view of the snow covered mountain peaks in the back.

After getting settled down in the hotel I went out with John to throw around the frisbee I brought with me on the trip. That Frisbee has traveled with me for the last 9 years and has been thrown at quiet a few places around the world. It is also sentimental for me for the fact that it is one of the Frisbees from the first Bali Ultimate Frisbee tournament held in 1999 and it was organized by the team I played together in Jakarta, Indonesia. I remember starting playing with the team when it was just few of us who would get together on Sunday afternoons and throw the disc around. Within less than a year we morphed into a sizeable team under the name Discindo, played regularly on Sunday afternoons, and dared to hold an Asian ultimate tournament in Bali on the Easter weekend of 1999. We pulled it all off in style, with nearly 150 participants at the tournament and over 3 days of full spirited competition.

As we looked for sponsors to pull off this large event in 1999 – with all proceeds going to charity – Akzo Nobel stepped up as one of the main sponsors of this ground breaking event. In the nine years since this tournament has grown into an annually established event in Bali. It now gets strong recognition from the Bali government for the local development and charitable endeavors the tournament and the Discindo team delivers. While I am in Antarctica, Discindo will be holding the 9th annual Bali Ultimate Frisbee Tournament during the Easter weekend. Guess what! At the same time, the Akzo Nobel expedition team will be trying to stage what I expect to be Antarctica’s first ultimate Frisbee game and our game disc will be the Frisbee from the 1999 Bali tournament. Disc’s in!

City of Fair Winds – Buenos Aires

Flight from the windy city to the city of fair winds went really well. It was a nice and quiet 10 hour trip, and it was so unwinding. The last couple of months I have to admit were hectic with busy work schedule, travels, Mission Antarctica related activities, and all the niceties involved in trying to organize my intended move from Chicago to Amsterdam (scheduled for April). By this point, things are slowly starting to set in and I am starting to fully realize the ramifications and uniqueness of the Antarctica expedition. The latest information and blog messages from the advanced team (already in Antarctica) about the hurdles they are running into does grab your full attention. When Robert Swan, who has been traveling to Antarctica year after year for the last twenty years, describes the near-failure-difficulties they are facing due to the harsh weather down there I am reminded again that this trip is not even vaguely similar to any other trips I have made before, I should respect the environment I am planning to spend the next couple of weeks, and all the best laid plans can change in an instant.

I found Buenos Aires great. First of all, the weather was perfect with autumn temperature and clear blue skies. The people seem extremely relaxed and friendly. I got to the city from the airport just in time for a nice lunch, which I enjoyed over a nice glass of aged grape juice (when in Rome, …..). I was also happy over the fact that my luggage made to Buenos Aires without any issues.

Together with another fellow Akzo Nobel explorer I scouted out the city and found some nice terrace cafes and some great restaurants by a nice river walk. By this point more and more of the team was arriving, each with their own unique travel story. Eric from China arrived exhausted after the 36 hour journey from Beijing. Delando from Canada walked into the customs to find out that he needs to pay $3500 for the 12 Gore-Tex™ rain jackets he brought over for the entire team. His story was fabulous in the way he negotiated it down to $300. I am taking him with me to buy my next car. James brought with him 30 pounds of beef jerky that he is going to take with him on the expedition. I am going to be his new best friend. The contingent from Europe came together as a big group and ran into a group of taxi drivers who wanted to charge each pair of them $120 for the trip from the Airport to the hotel, while the metered fare would have been less than $30. Imagine the surprise of the gang of taxi drivers to run into a negotiating team that was twelve strong.

When all said and done, it was nice to be finally together as a full team. The spirit is high and we were busy for a long while tonight catching up on all of our stories over the last two months. Tomorrow at dawn we will be heading back to the airport together for our 4 hour flight to Ushuaia. I have about 4 hours of sleeping time left before I need to be ready at the hotel lobby. Ciao.

Cheers, salute, proost!

Soon after I checked in at the airport in Chicago, I walked with a purpose to the nearest duty free shop. In all the things I packed for the expedition, I knew I missed a good bottle of whisky. Despite the remote location I was (we were) going to be in, I am sure there are going to be few moments of celebration that might call for a shot (or two) of whisky between us. I ended up getting a modest sized bottle of Glennfiddich scotch at the duty free shop. Well, the brand is my favorite whisky and it reminded me of my first boss at Akzo Nobel, who is also a casual whisky drinker and whose favorite scotch is also Glennfiddich.

I have heard many times from many different people how important your first boss is to your future career. I have also come to believe that fully in my 10 years of professional life. From day one, he made it clear to me what was needed of me, and then gave me the responsibility and freedom to execute it. In the process, I learned a lot and I did make mistakes. Through it all he made sure we always got the job done and still allowed me the liberty to learn from my mistakes as well. He never held my hands to the fire, and he never left me feeling vulnerable because of mistakes. We accomplished a lot in the short one year I worked with (for) him and he made sure I was recognized for my contributions and efforts. Most importantly, through his management style he instilled in me foundation of confidence and can-do attitude that is rock solid ever since. For that I am so much a better person and a better employee, and for that I am so much in debt to him. I know I will be thinking of him few more times during this expedition. Cheers, salute, proost!

Bon voyage

Well, that day – the departure day – is finally here. After two months in preparation, since the kick-off meeting in Deventer, NL, I left Chicago on Monday, March 10, night. The night before, I was busy packing up all the gear and accessories. They were all accumulating in one corner of my bedroom for the last few weeks. With the final purchase of a good size duffle-bag and a back-pack, it was time to cram all the stuff that are supposed to keep me dry, warm and safe for 14 un-interrupted days of guaranteed cold weather. I was amazed how long it took me to pack, as I tried to continuously debate and prioritize the list of items I wanted to bring with me. I think I got all the essentials. Even then I think when I get to Antarctica I will realize that some items I needed I didn’t bring and some items I brought I don’t need. Anyhow, it is too late in the game to change the plans.

My flight plan will take me from Chicago to Buenos Aires, where I will meet up with rest of the expedition team from Akzo Nobel. From there we will fly together another 4 hours to the city of Ushuaia at the south most tip of Argentina. At Ushuaia we will meet up the expedition leaders from 2041 organization. Before we board the ship to make across the dreaded Drake Passage, we all will go through orientation, basic Antarctic safety training, and gear check for two days in Ushuaia. I remember hearing from Robert Swan during the kick-off meeting: “if you hit the water, you are dead” and “if you fall into one of the crevices, the bad news is that they are usually thousands of meters deep and there is no rescue possible.” You bet I will be taking extra notes at the safety training.

At the check-in counter at the airport they gave me some hassle about the odd luggage I had, especially with the collapsible ski poles and the number of lose straps on my back-pack. I was originally planning to take my back-pack as a carry on item in the plane, but they wouldn’t allow that. I ended up checking in my backpack as well, which contained the more valuable and sensitive items like my cameras (yes, more than one of them), laptop, sun glasses (yes, plural again), binoculars, and the absolutely critical sea sickness patches. I was a bit tense as I they put my luggage on the conveyor belt, but hoped for the best as it disappeared around the corner.

Knight in shinning red parka

My gear for the Antarctica expedition is almost all complete and ready to go. All together they add up to about 80 pounds, including my boots, emergency kit and the cameras. Last weekend I decided to get suited up in full gear just for the fun of it and just to try out some of the gear. From head to toe, and over three layers of clothing, I ended-up with about 23 pieces of clothing and other protective gear on me. It took me about an hour to put it all together and get out of it all in my first attempt. The heart of the gear includes water proof boots, water proof pants, quick dry long pants and top, multiple layers of additional clothing, water proof gloves, warm hat with extra face coverage, polarized sunglasses with side protection and the never-leave-home-without-it 10 pound parka. The short of it is that, the full set of gear includes everything but a diaper. I kept imagining, with my luck, I will probably need to go to the bathroom just after I don my full armor.

Diego Compass, Jenever and a lucky charm – essentials of every Antarctic expedition

Today I think I am ready for Antarctica. I have broken free of my bronchitis, I have my doctor’s consent for the expedition, my gear is ready, and most of my work related issues are squared away. One of the coolest thing happened this week. Few of my colleagues got together and gave me few essentials for my trip, including a Diego compass (it might come in handy if a penguin gets too close) and a flask of Jenever – aged to perfection by KLM airlines. The overall way they got together and sprung the surprise on me; way too cool. I thought I was going into a serious meeting (the only type I ever attend) and when people started pouring into the room, I knew I had been had. In the mix I even got a lucky charm for the trip from my colleague from Mexico. Awesome! That, along with the rest of the surprises I got, are coming along on the coolest ride of my life.

My employer

Although I was positive that I wanted to work in Asia I didn't know anybody who was enthusiastic about sending a fresh engineering graduate right out of the university overseas on his first assignment. That was until I came across Akzo Nobel. Ever since, and through my 10 years in the company, I found out that at Akzo Nobel be careful what you wish for; the chances are your wish may come true. On my first assignment I was involved in the construction and start-up of a chemical plant in Indonesia. I found this to be an ideal platform for me to gain valuable engineering, project, and international experience.

From the onset, I was given the flexibility of getting involved in a variety of tasks. Consequently, I was able to diversify my experience and broaden my skill-set at a rapid pace. Today, I work as a regional finance controller of a business group with global reach. Observing my own progress and that of my colleagues within the company, I see tremendous possibilities in Akzo Nobel for anyone who is thrilled by challenges, responsibility and freedom to operate. Every day I look for opportunities that will help me contribute, learn new skills and move on to bigger and better challenges.

My birthplace

I was born in the South part of India, in a region called Kerala. Kerala is a land of great natural beauty, and rightfully we, Malayalees, claim it as God’s own country. Crowned on the east by high mountains, bordered on the west by the Arabian sea, Kerala boasts some of the most majestic natural beauty in the world. Part of the mosaic of Indian culture, Keralian culture has a flavor all its own. Marked by the language, Malayalam, we Malayalees are a proud bunch. Tempered by centuries of trade and exposure to outside world, the culture is exceptionally welcoming to people of different faiths or ethnicities. No matter where you settle, you will find yourself in the middle of a close-knit community, where children address the lady next door as "aunt", housewives frequently shares recipes and neighbors are extensions of the immediate family.

In our society education is a strict measure of an individual’s achievement, while humility, hard work and community service is extolled. Elders, such as parents, teachers and priests are afforded the greatest respect amongst us. Once splintered by the caste system, today’s Kerala is one of the most communally tranquil areas of India. It is not uncommon to find a Hindu temple, a church and a mosque near to each other. The many fairs and festivals that come with this religious harmony form an integral part of our heritage and my early childhood. In this land of mystic beauty, ethnic harmony, rich heritage and gracious hospitality, one can always find themselves enchanted, welcomed and engaged. When visiting a Malayalee home, even if unannounced, a feast is, at most, an hour away. True to the legendary spice tradition, the staples of rice and side dishes will entice the taste buds, and occasionally the tear buds.

A bit about me

I do not believe in luck, but I have benefited tremendously from being in the right place at the right time. By embracing spontaneity my life up to this point has been a rich spectrum of experiences. I am eager to learn from my experiences and those of others. I am not afraid of making mistakes, but I hate repeating them. I prefer the new and unusual, and like new solutions to old problems. Absence of routine does not traumatize me. I am most comfortable when involved in a wide spectrum of activities. I do not focus on details, unless I see the importance of them in accomplishing my goals. I believe in working hard, playing hard and leading a balanced life (but the last part is so hard to pull off).

I am competitive. I enjoy every land-based sport, except tennis. I will only get into water on a jet ski or out of sheer necessity. Even though I am scared of heights, I sky dive. However, I have sworn-off bungee jumping. I find quiet moments between conversations equally as informing as the conversations themselves. Besides cooking, I enjoy reading biographies, philosophy and occasionally a novel. Music inspires me and I listen to music of all kinds as well as several different languages. And, depending on the people I am with, I could be caught dancing.

As I reflect on my life’s journey that started in a village near the southern tip of India, I can sum it up as a quest to learn, to contribute, and to keep expanding my horizon. Having the ability to see the big picture as well as the small pieces of the puzzle, I have learned to translate my goals and dreams into a series of manageable steps and accomplish them. Whether it takes minutes, months or years, I have learned to persevere and enjoy the journey as much as the accomplishments.

Welcome

If my doctor also consents, I will have an incredible opportunity in March 2008 to go to Antarctica as part of Akzo Nobel’s Mission Antarctica. For me it is a once in a life time opportunity and I am very grateful for it. Mission Antarctica is an Akzo Nobel initiative, spanning all business units, to join Robert Swan and the 6th annual expedition to Antarctica. This Akzo Nobel initiative in partnership with Robert Swan’s 2041 organization is to raise awareness about sustainable business practices within the company, within the industry and to develop leadership talents within Akzo Nobel.This expedition will be an educational journey for me and I would like to invite you to virtually join me on my trip on this Mission Antartica Blog.

As the clock ticks down closer to March 13, I feel truly excited, nervous, and cold. I welcome you to visit http://www.missionantarctica.com/ for the latest news about the expedition, to hear from other participants, and to learn more about Robert Swan, 2041 organization and about Antarctica. Thank you for the support and encouragement.